The development of sunscreens with GMS system

Autor: Wen-Ting Chu, 楚雯婷
Rok vydání: 2014
Druh dokumentu: 學位論文 ; thesis
Popis: 102
It is well known that overexposure to UV radiation will cause wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules and even skin cancer. To protect the skin from UV damage, sunscreen products should be properly applied on the skin during the daytime. A great number of sunscreen products are available in the commercial market. However, some of them include chemically instable sunscreens such as PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate) and/or P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane). They will result in the disadvantage changes in physical properties and the lower efficacy. This has led to the intensive development of elegant sunscreen products. The aim of this study is to evaluate the influence of different kinds of oils and filter combinations on the storage stability and the sunburn protection of sunscreen emulsions with oil in water type. In order to formulate the o/w sunscreen products, a surfactant, GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate) as a emulsifier and five oily ingredients, Mineral Oil, Aole Oil, Amiter MA-HD(Hexyldecyl Myristoyl Methylaminopropionate), Stearic acid, and Cetyl alcohol as oil phase, were examined. And three chemical UV filters, PMCX(OctylMethoxy Cinnamate), P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) and Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate), and one physical UV filter, TiO2 (Titanium oxide) were selected because they were the most widely used UV filters which were approved. In the beginning we formulated three kinds of emulsions as a control. And then we performed studies using the incorporation of different combinations of the UV filters into the three kinds of W/O emulsions by varying concentration of emulsifier and investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, particle size and distribution, and physical changes before and after accelerated test. The results indicated that using GMS as an emulsifier provide better storage stability when the concentration of GMS is added above 1.6% for control emulsions or sunscreen emulsions. Sunscreen products with Aloe oil or Mineral oil have more stable SPF efficacy than that with Amiter MA-HD. When P1789 is replaced with Uvinul A plus, they are approximately the same photostability. Finally adding physical TiO2 will decrease storage stability but increase SPF efficacy. Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product was obtained. With high efficacy of SPF50+, good stability at 45℃testing for 91 days, good photostability, esthetic appearance, and good skin feel, it is composed of GMS 1.6%, Aloe Oil 12.00%, Parsol MCX 10.00%, Parsol 1789 5.00%, Amphisol K 0.64%, Cabopol 1342 0.104%, D.W 69.92%, Germaben II 0.64%, TEA 0.10%.
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