The investigation of the run-up on the swash zone
| Autor: | Yung-Sheng Tai, 戴永昇 |
|---|---|
| Rok vydání: | 2007 |
| Druh dokumentu: | 學位論文 ; thesis |
| Popis: | 95 In present study, a series of elaborate experiments are performed in a super wave flume ( ) at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory, National Cheng Kung University. The main purpose of this study is to find out the run-up height on the artificial structure, such as breakwater, dike and artificial reef. Therefore, it is significant to understand the run-up mechanism on the swash zone. Moreover, the effect of long wave on the swash zone with the evolution process of N-waves from deep water to shallow water depth would be further investigated. Three typical waves, including mono-chromatic wave, bi-chromatic wave and tri-chromatic wave, are measured to analyze the phenomenon of run-up after wave breaking on bottom slope 1/10, 1/20 and 1/40. Two typical cases of N-waves, with 2.5m working water depth on 1/40 slope are measured in this study. According to our experimental results, surf parameter agrees well with relative maximum run-up height in mono-chromatic wave conditions by regression analysis. However, the development of maximum run-up height is closely related to the breaking events in the deep water depth due to sideband instability. The maximum run-up height would be divided into two components as long wave and short wave. Surprisingly, the experiments of bi-chromatic wave and tri-chromatic wave conditions are also concerned with the angular frequency difference and the ratio of the sideband amplitude to the carrier wave amplitude. According to our experimental results for the evolution process of N-waves, wave shape becomes asymmetric owing to shoaling effect while propagating over the beach. The fission process of N-waves in this study is produced in the case of larger relative amplitude (A0/d0). The distribution of horizontal velocities underneath the wave crest appears quite uniform offshore, and increases accompanied with the shallower water depth. Comparatively, the vertical velocity profiles keep tiny values till the onset of wave breaking. |
| Databáze: | Networked Digital Library of Theses & Dissertations |
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