Long-Wave Forcing by the Breaking of Random Gravity Waves on a Beach

Autor:	Baldock, T. E., Huntley, D. A.
Zdroj:	Proceedings: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 2002 Sep 01. 458(2025), 2177-2201.
Databáze:	JSTOR Journals
Externí odkaz:	https://www.jstor.org/stable/3067366 Zobrazit plný text záznamu