Neuromechanics of finger hangs with arm lock-offs: analyzing joint moments and muscle activations to improve practice guidelines for climbing

Autor: Juliana Exel, David Deimel, Willi Koller, Cäcilia Werle, Arnold Baca, Daniela Maffiodo, Raffaella Sesana, Alessandro Colombo, Hans Kainz
Jazyk: angličtina
Rok vydání: 2023
Předmět:
Zdroj: Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, Vol 5 (2023)
Druh dokumentu: article
ISSN: 2624-9367
DOI: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1251089
Popis: IntroductionClimbing imposes substantial demands on the upper limbs and understanding the mechanical loads experienced by the joints during climbing movements is crucial for injury prevention and optimizing training protocols. This study aimed to quantify and compare upper limb joint loads and muscle activations during isometric finger hanging exercises with different arm lock-off positions.MethodsSeventeen recreational climbers performed six finger dead hangs with arm lock-offs at 90° and 135° of elbow flexion, as well as arms fully extended. Upper limb joint moments were calculated using personalized models in OpenSim, based on three-dimensional motion capture data and forces measured on an instrumented hang board. Muscle activations of upper limb muscles were recorded with surface electromyography electrodes.ResultsResults revealed that the shoulder exhibited higher flexion moments during arm lock-offs at 90° compared to full extension (p = 0.006). The adduction moment was higher at 135° and 90° compared to full extension (p
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