Focusing wave group on a current of finite depth

Autor: D. Merkoune, J. Touboul, N. Abcha, D. Mouazé, A. Ezersky
Jazyk: angličtina
Rok vydání: 2013
Předmět:
Zdroj: Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol 13, Iss 11, Pp 2941-2949 (2013)
Druh dokumentu: article
ISSN: 1561-8633
1684-9981
2941-2013
DOI: 10.5194/nhess-13-2941-2013
Popis: Formation of freak waves resulting from the wave packets propagating in finite water depth on the background of a current is studied experimentally and numerically. In the experiment, the freak waves appear as a result of dispersion focusing of wave train excited by wave maker with modulated frequency. The space evolution of the frequency modulated train is studied in numerical simulations. We showed that in the water of finite depth, a distance of focusing increases and amplitude in the focal point decreases in comparison with infinite water depth. Experimental results are in good agreement with numerical simulations if wave breaking of surface waves does not occur.
Databáze: Directory of Open Access Journals