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Zlata rozga (Solidago) kot invazivna tujerodna rastlina predstavlja okoljski problem in jo najdemo tudi v Sloveniji. Zaradi vsebnosti barvil iz skupine flavinoidov, se lahko njen vodni ekstrakt uporabi za barvanje tekstilij. Barvilo ima slabo afiniteto do celuloznih vlaken, ta pomanjkljivost pa se lahko izboljša s čimžanjem ali s kationsko predobdelavo vlaken. V sklopu diplomske naloge je bila opravljena raziskava vpliva postopka predobdelave na obarvljivost bombaža z naravnim barvilom, pridobljenim iz socvetja zlate rozge. Barvanje je bilo izvedeno na vzorcih brez predhodne kationske obdelave ali čimžanja (referenčni vzorci), predhodno čimžanih vzorcih, vzorcih čimžanih med barvanjem in kationsko predobdelanih vzorcih. Uporabljena čimža je bil kalijev aluminijev sulfat dodekahidrat (Kal(SO4)2 × 12 H2O), kationsko sredstvo pa DENIMCOL FIX-OS. Barvanje je bilo opravljeno v dveh ponovitvah pri treh različnih koncentracijah vodnega ekstrakta zlate rozge, in sicer brez redčenja ter z redčenjem z destilirano vodo v volumskih razmerjih 1:2 in 1:3. Spektrofotometrično vrednotenje je bilo izvedeno na pobarvanih vzorcih pred in po večkratnem pranju. Barvna obstojnost na drgnjenje je bila ocenjena vizualno po sivi skali. Barvna obstojnost na umetni svetlobi je bila ocenjena po modri skali in spektrofotometrično na pobarvanih vzorcih pred in po osvetljevanju. Rezultati kažejo, da je postopek kationizacije bombažne tkanine vplival na bistveno večje navzemanje barvila zlate rozge iz barvalne kopeli v primerjavi z vzorci, ki so bili čimžani pred ali med barvanjem oziroma neobdelanimi vzorci. Kationsko predhodno obdelani vzorci so imeli tudi najboljše barvne obstojnosti na pranje, drgnjenje in na svetlobi. The Goldenrod (Solidago), an invasive alien plant which is also found in Slovenia, represents an environmental problem. Because it contains the dyes from the flavonoids group, its aqueous extract may be used for the textile dyeing. The dye has poor affinity for the cellulose fibres and this limitation can be improved with the mordanting or cationic pre-treatment of fibres. Within the diploma thesis, the influence of pre-treatment process on dyeability of cotton with natural dye obtained from the goldenrod inflorescence was studied. Dyeing was carried out on samples without cationic pre-treatment or mordanting (reference samples), with mordanting prior to dyeing, mordanting during dyeing and with cationic pre-treatment. The mordant used was potassium aluminium sulphate dodecahydrate (Kal(SO4)2 × 12 H2O) and the cationic agent was DENIMCOL FIX-OS. Dyeing was carried out in two repetitions at three different concentrations of the goldenrod aqueous extract, i.e. without dilution and by dilution with distilled water at the volume ratios 1:2 and 1:3. The spectrophotometric evaluation was performed on the dyed samples before and after repeated washings. The colour fastness to rubbing was evaluated visually according to the grey scale. The colour fastness to artificial light was evaluated according to the blue scale as well as spectrophotometrically on the dyed samples before and after illumination. The results show that the cationisation process of cotton fabric significantly increased the sorption of the goldenrod dye from the dye bath in comparison to the samples which were mordanted before or during dyeing as well as the untreated ones. The cationic pre-treated samples also had the highest colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light. |
