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Senzorična analiza je pomembno orodje za vrednotenje kozmetičnih izdelkov v celotni poti razvoja kozmetičnega izdelka, od konceptualizacije izdelka do marketinga in prodaje. Skupaj z instrumentalnimi testi daje dodatno vrednost in popolnejši profil kozmetičnega izdelka. Za razliko od instrumentalnih testov pri senzorični analizi kozmetični izdelek ocenjuje človek s svojimi osnovnimi čuti. To so vid, voh, tip, okus in sluh. Znotraj senzorične analize ločimo analitične in hedonske metode. Analitične imajo objektiven pristop, pri katerem sodeluje kvalificirano osebje, medtem ko je za hedonske metode značilen subjektiven pristop, pri katerem sodelujejo nekvalificirani prostovoljci. Znotraj vsake izmed metod ločimo več testov. Znotraj analitičnih metod ločimo diskriminatorno (trikotni test, duo-trio test, test s primerjavo v parih in uvrstitveni test) in deskriptivno (klasična kvantitativna deskriptivna analiza, metoda hitrega profiliranja, Pivot© profil metoda in metoda »označi, kar ustreza«) testiranje. Znotraj hedonskih metod ločimo afektivno in efektivno testiranje. Izbira testa je odvisna od cilja, ki ga želimo doseči. V diplomskem delu smo z anketnim raziskovanjem med devetimi slovenskimi in tujimi kozmetičnimi podjetji preučevali pristop k postavitvi senzoričnega profila izdelka. Gre za kozmetična podjetja in podjetja, ki se med drugim ukvarjajo tudi s senzorično analizo kozmetičnih izdelkov. Zanimalo nas je, na kakšen način so podjetja vpeta v senzorično analizo, katere izdelke vrednotijo in katerih testov se pri tem poslužujejo. Pridobili smo tudi podatke o lastnostih, izobrazbi in usposabljanju ocenjevalcev ter prostorih, kjer se senzorična analiza izvaja. Seznanili smo se tudi s potekom senzorične analize in vrednotenjem rezultatov le-te. Ugotovili smo, da vsa podjetja v določenem obsegu izvajajo senzorično vrednotenje kozmetičnih izdelkov, najpogosteje za kozmetične izdelke za lase. Največkrat uporabljajo hedonski pristop oz. potrošniške teste. Zanimiv odgovor sta nam podali slovenski podjetji Kozmetika Afrodita, d. o. o., in Hemptouch, d. o. o. Vprašanja, povezana s senzoriko, so namreč pri Afroditi zgolj del testiranja polizdelka v izbranih testnih skupinah. Pri tem nikoli ne sodelujejo usposobljeni preizkuševalci, temveč zgolj prostovoljci. Podjetje Hemptouch ne nameni veliko pozornosti ugodni senzorični izkušnji, saj je namen njihovih izdelkov reševanje kožnih težav. Kljub temu so se z zamenjavo sestavine zaradi neugodne senzorične izkušnje že srečali. Tako vidimo, da je senzorična analiza neizogibni in pomemben del vrednotenja kozmetičnih izdelkov. V drugem sklopu naloge smo na podlagi pridobljenih informacij v okviru anketnega raziskovanja in podatkov iz strokovne literature sestavili vprašalnik in izvedli senzorično analizo, kjer nas je zanimala predvsem povezava med zaznanimi lastnostmi ter trditvami za posamezen kozmetični izdelek. Izvedli smo hedonski oz. potrošniški test, in sicer kombinacijo afektivnega in efektivnega testa. Primerjali smo dve kremi za obraz znamke Afrodita, »Aqua MIX lahka hranljiva krema« in »Botanical MIX vlažilna gelna krema«. Kremi sta se med seboj razlikovali v določenih sestavinah, s čimer smo pojasnili razlike v senzoričnih lastnostih. Večina testirank bi raje izbrala »Botanical MIX vlažilno gelno kremo«, ki glede na informacije s strani proizvajalca dejansko dosega večji delež prodaje. V okviru testiranja smo prav tako potrdili večino navedb, s katerimi proizvajalec oglašuje oba kozmetična izdelka. V okviru diplomske naloge smo z anketnim raziskovanjem pridobili veliko informacij ter dobili vpogled v ključno vlogo senzorične analize tako pri razvoju kot marketingu kozmetičnih izdelkov. Sensory analysis is a tool for evaluating cosmetic products throughout the development path of a cosmetic product, starting from the conceptualization model to marketing and sales. Together with instrumental tests, it provides additional value and a complete profile of the cosmetic product. Unlike instrumental tests, sensory analysis is carried out by a person with its basic senses, namely sight, smell, touch, taste and hearing. Within sensory analysis, we distinguish between analytical and hedonic methods. Analytical methods have an objective approach involving qualified staff, while hedonic methods have more subjective approach involving unskilled volunteers. Within each method, there are several tests. Within analytical methods, we distinguish between discrimination (triangle test, duo-trio test, pairwise test and ranking test) and descriptive (classical quantitative descriptive analysis, flash profile method, pivot profile method and check-all-that-apply method) testing. Within hedonic methods, we distinguish between affective and effective testing. The choice of test depends on the goal we want to achieve. Within the diploma thesis, we studied the approach to setting up a sensory profile through a survey among nine Slovenian and foreign cosmetic companies. These are cosmetic companies and companies that are not cosmetic but are engaged in sensory analysis of cosmetic products. We were interested in how the companies are involved in sensory analysis, which products they value and which tests are used. We also obtained data on the characteristics, education and training of assessors and the places where sensory analysis is performed. We also got acquainted with the steps of sensory analysis and evaluation of its results. We found that each company performs a sensory evaluation of cosmetic products to a certain extent, most often for hair cosmetics. Hedonic approach or consumer tests are most often used. An interesting answer was provided by Slovenian companies Kozmetika Afrodita d. o. o. and Hemptouch d. o. o. In Afrodita sensory-related questions are only part of the testing of a semi-finished product in selected test groups. Qualified assessors are never involved, only volunteers. Hemptouch does not pay much attention to a favourable sensory experience, as the purpose of their products is to solve skin problems. Nevertheless, they have already encountered ingredient replacement due to an unfavourable sensory experience. We conclude that sensory analysis is an inevitable and important part of the evaluation of cosmetic products themselves. In the second part of the diploma thesis, based on the information obtained in the survey and data from the professional literature, we set up a questionnaire and performed a sensory analysis, where we were mainly interested in the correlation between perceived properties and claims for individual cosmetic products. We performed hedonic or consumer test, a combination of affective and effective test. We compared two Afrodita’s face creams, “Aqua MIX light nourishing cream” and “Botanical MIX hydrating gel cream”. Creams differ in certain ingredients, thus explaining the differences in sensory properties. Most opted for “Botanical MIX hydrating gel cream” over “Aqua MIX light nourishing cream”. According to the information from manufacturers “Botanical MIX hydrating cream” indeed achieves a higher share of sales. As part of the testing, we also confirmed most of the claims, with which manufacturers advertise both cosmetic products. Through survey research, we gained a lot of information and insight into the key role of sensory analysis in both the development and marketing of cosmetic products. |
