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V magistrski nalogi je ročno delo osrednja tema tako v začetnem kot tudi končnem procesu oblikovanja ženske kolekcije oblačil. Skozi vizualno pripoved sem raziskovala oblačilne tradicije šamanov v Afriki, ki so poimenovani “The hyena men”. Sestavljala sem kolaže in s skalpelom izrezovala podobe, ki sem jih gradila v celostne zgodbe. Ob tem sem prišla do tehnik dela, ki sedaj predstavljajo identiteto kolekcije: ročno izrezovanje tekstila s skalpelom, vzorčno tkanje trakov in uporaba odpadnih kosov tekstila za novo plosko netkano tekstilijo. V delu se celostno osredotočam na trajnostne principe oblikovanja, s poudarkom na odnosu med oblikovalcem in potrošnikom ter na popotrošniškem vedenju. Kolekcija predstavlja izhodišče in začetno komunikacijo med oblikovalcem in potrošnikom, ki lahko z nekaj odgovornosti in ozaveščenosti podaljšata življenjski cikel oblačilu. Vprašanje, ki sem si ga zastavila je bilo, kako lahko ročno delo pripomore k vrednosti oblačila in ali to lahko pripomore k podaljšanju življenjske dobe oblačila. Kako končni uporabnik oblačila dojema ročno delo? Cilj naloge je vzpostavitev trajnostne filozofije, ki temelji na treh načelih: da je oblačilo mogoče ponovno uporabiti in reciklirati da oblačilo vzpodbuja čustveno navezanost da se oblačilo vrti v zaprtem krogu – uporabe, pouporabe in reciklaže. Kolekcija predstavlja filozofijo samovzdržnosti in se vpenja v krog uporabnosti na način, da se vzpostavi sodelovanje med oblikovalcem in končnim uporabnikom, ki skupaj skrbita za oblačilo, tudi ko le to v prvotni obliki ni več nosljivo. The central theme of this master thesis is the use of handwork, both in the starting and the finishing process of designing a collection of women’s clothing. I researched the clothing traditions of African shamans called “the hyena men”, using the technique of visual storytelling – assembling collages, cutting out images and using those to build holistic narratives. Through this process, I arrived at specific work techniques, which now compose the main identity of the collection using a scalpel for cutting textiles by hand, weaving patterned ribbons and using scrap pieces of cloth, for creating a new nonwoven flat fabric. The main focus of this thesis are sustainable design principles, with an emphasis on the relationship between the designer and the consumer, as well as consumer behaviour. The collection represents a point of departure and an opening conversation between the designer and the consumer, on how the two might prolong the lifecycle of garments, by exercising responsibility and awareness. The central question being examined here, is whether work done by hand can increase the value of clothing and how that might contribute toward prolonging its lifetime. How does the end user perceive handwork and how does the latter define the user? The goal of this exercise is to establish a sustainable philosophy, based on three core principles - the garment can be reused and recycled the garment entices the user to establish an emotional bond with it the garment is part of a closed loop of use, reuse and recycling. The collection is a representation of the philosophy of self-sustainability and is integrated into a closed circle of cyclical use, even once the individual piece is no longer wearable, by establishing a collaboration between the designer and the final user, both of who take care of the garment together. |
