Quantitation of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics by hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography coupled to photo diode array detection

Autor: Raikou, V. Kalogria, E. Varvaresou, A. Tsirivas, E. Panderi, I.
Jazyk: angličtina
Rok vydání: 2021
Popis: Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing pep-tides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatogra-phy was performed on a Xbridge® HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, v/v at flow rate 0.25 mL min−1 . The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 µg mL−1 for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (w/w) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 µg mL−1 and 0.002% (w/w) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams. © 2021 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
Databáze: OpenAIRE