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V raziskavi smo proučili možnost uporabe rastlinskih barvil za barvanje volnene preje, ki se bo uporabljala za izdelavo unikatnih pletenih in vezenih izdelkov. V ta namen je bila izvedena ekstrakcija barvil iz različnih delov štirih izbranih rastlin, ki so v naravi razširjene in dostopne ter dajejo v osnovi rumene, rdeče, rjave in zelene barvne tone. To so navadna breza, navadna lakota, navadni oreh in velika kopriva. Za doseganje obsežnejše palete barvnih tonov ter boljše izčrpanje in fiksiranje barvil (večje obstojnosti) smo uporabili različne kovinske soli (Al, Cu in Fe) pri postopku ekstrakcije, pri barvanju in po barvanju (naknadna obdelava). Prav tako smo spreminjali kopelno razmerje ekstrakcije (različna začetna koncentracija barvil) in pH ekstrakta. Po barvanju smo vzorce oprali in izvedli preskus barvne obstojnosti na pranje pri temperaturi 40 °C. Obarvane vzorce volnene preje smo barvnometrično ovrednotili z uporabo barvnega sistema CIE in jih grafično prikazali v CIE a*b* barvnem diagramu. The aim of the research was to study the possibility of using plant dyes for the dyeing of wool yarn, which would later be used for unique knitted and embroidered products. In order to achieve this goal, the extraction of dyes was performed using various plants that are widely present in our area, using mainly yellow, red, brown and green shades. These plants are birch tree, lady's bedstraw root, nut tree and big nettle. To attain a wider palette of colour shades, and superior dye exhaustion and fixation (for better colour fastness), different mordants (i.e. Al, Cu and Fe) were used during the extraction, the dyeing process or after the dyeing (i.e. after-treatment). The liquor ratio of the extraction (different initial dye concentrations) and pH of the extract varied as well. Wool samples were washed after the dyeing and tested for colour fastness during washing at temperature 40 °C. The dyed samples were colourimetrically evaluated using the CIE colour system and graphically presented in the CIE a*b* colour diagram. |
