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We characterized two kinds of "Omigoromo" stored by Showa Women's University. "Omigoromo" is a kind of ceremonial jacket used for the Shinto rites at the Imperial Court since the reign of Emperor Saga (Konin period; 809-823) and now it is only used in "Daijousai" festival, where the Emperor worships his ancestors with newly-cropped rice in the first year of his enthronement. "Omigoromo" were incinerated after the ceremony, so it is rare to find any extant these days. In this work, we observed the form and patterns of the two Omigoromo (Omigoromo #1 and #2), and characterized the weave of textiles, the yams and fibers. Omigoromo #1 was assigned to the Taisho-Tairei in the Taisho era from the form and the patterns. Omigoromo #2 was considered to be made before the Meiji era and was called "Aozuri-no-ho" worn by a court musician or a dancer. Fibers of the body part of the Omigoromo #1 were identified as linen, and the akahimo and sewing thread were identified as degummed silk. Fibers of the body part textile and the loop for buttons of the Omigoromo #2 were identified as ramie, and the sewing threads were identified as degummed silk. Both Omigoromo #1 and #2 were plainly weaved, but the yams of the textile of #1 and #2 were Z twist and S twist, respectively. The powders added to the textile of both Omigoromo #1 and #2 were identified as rice starch by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction technique and Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometory. The rice starch powders were considered to be used for the whitening of "Omigoromo" that was called "Kobari". These investigations of "Omigoromo" are important for the handing down of Japanese traditional culture. |
