How Observed Kilometric Sandy Shoreline Undulations depend on Wave Climate
| Autor: | Déborah Idier, Albert Falqués, Jeremy Rohmer, Manuel Garcin |
|---|---|
| Přispěvatelé: | Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM), Departament de Fisica Aplicada (UPC), Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya [Barcelona] (UPC), Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) ( BRGM ), Departament de Fisica Aplicada ( UPC ), Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya [Barcelona] ( UPC ), Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica de Fluids: formació d'estructures i aplicacions geofísiques |
| Jazyk: | angličtina |
| Rok vydání: | 2018 |
| Předmět: |
Wave instability
010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences 0208 environmental biotechnology data analysis Wavelets (Mathematics) Ribes (Ciències de la terra) 02 engineering and technology 01 natural sciences 14. Life underwater wave climate Ondetes (Matemàtica) Geomorphology ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS [SDU.STU.OC]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Oceanography 0105 earth and related environmental sciences Earth-Surface Processes Water Science and Technology Shore geography geography.geographical_feature_category [ SDU.STU.OC ] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Oceanography Ecology Física [Àrees temàtiques de la UPC] Shorelines wavelet analysis Wave climate sell-organized patterns 020801 environmental engineering Wavelength 13. Climate action global scale Geology |
| Zdroj: | International Coastal Symposium (ICS2018) International Coastal Symposium (ICS2018), May 2018, Busan, South Korea www.ics2018.org International Coastal Symposium (ICS2018), May 2018, Busan, South Korea. 2018, 〈www.ics2018.org〉 UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) HAL Recercat. Dipósit de la Recerca de Catalunya instname |
| ISSN: | 0749-0208 |
| Popis: | Idier, D.; Falqués, A.; Garcin, M., and Rohmer, J., 2018. How observed kilometric sandy shoreline undulations depend on wave climate. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 191–195. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Coastlines sometimes exhibit km-scale undulations, also called shoreline sandwaves. This work focuses on self-organized undulations and investigates how frequent they are, on which parameters they depend and whether existing theories of morphodynamic instabilities can explain them. We perform a wavelet analysis on shoreline data from areas appearing free of human or geological constraints and representing totally 1268 km around the world. It is found that 61% of cases exhibit undulations with wavelengths in the range 1–10 km. The wave parameter that correlates the best with their existence is the incidence angle with respect to shore normal and, to a lesser extent, the closure depth. The shoreline undulation probability increases with the angle, from 50% for low angles to almost 100% for large angles, suggesting that the High-Angle Wave Instability mechanism (HAWI) would be their primary cause, but that Low-Angle Wave Instability (LAWI) may also play a role. These results are consistent with recent theoretical investigations. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
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