On dispersion of directional surface gravity waves
| Autor: | Harald E. Krogstad, Karsten Trulsen, José Carlos Nieto Borge, Tore Magnus Arnesen Taklo |
|---|---|
| Jazyk: | angličtina |
| Rok vydání: | 2017 |
| Předmět: |
Physics
Capillary wave 010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences Wave propagation Infragravity wave Mechanical Engineering Mathematical analysis Internal wave Condensed Matter Physics 01 natural sciences 010305 fluids & plasmas Physics::Geophysics Physics::Fluid Dynamics symbols.namesake Mechanics of Materials 0103 physical sciences symbols Crest Gravity wave Rayleigh wave Dispersion (water waves) Nonlinear Sciences::Pattern Formation and Solitons 0105 earth and related environmental sciences |
| Zdroj: | Journal of Fluid Mechanics |
| ISSN: | 0022-1120 |
| Popis: | Using a nonlinear evolution equation we examine the dependence of the dispersion of directional surface gravity waves on the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI) and crest length. A parameter for describing the deviation between the dispersion of simulated waves and the theoretical linear dispersion relation is proposed. We find that for short crests the magnitude of the deviation parameter is low while for long crests the magnitude is high and depends on the BFI. In the present paper we also consider laboratory data of directional waves from the Marine Research Institute of the Netherlands (MARIN). The MARIN data confirm the simulations for three cases of BFI and crest length. © 2017. This is the authors' accepted and refereed manuscript to the article. The final authenticated version is available online at: https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2016.817 |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
| Externí odkaz: |
|