Surfactants have multi-fold effects on skin barrier function

Autor: Annie Gohier, Emmanuelle Lemery, Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Olivier Boyron, Thierry Oddos, Yves Chevalier, Stéphanie Briançon
Přispěvatelé: Laboratoire d'automatique et de génie des procédés (LAGEP), Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1 (UCBL), Université de Lyon-Université de Lyon-École Supérieure Chimie Physique Électronique de Lyon-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Dept Nouvelles Technol, Johnson & Johnson, Laboratoire de Chimie, Catalyse, Polymères et Procédés, R 5265 (C2P2), Université de Lyon-Université de Lyon-École supérieure de Chimie Physique Electronique de Lyon (CPE)-Institut de Chimie du CNRS (INC)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)
Rok vydání: 2015
Předmět:
Zdroj: European Journal of Dermatology
European Journal of Dermatology, John Libbey Eurotext, 2015, pp.424-435. ⟨10.1684/ejd.2015.2587⟩
ISSN: 1952-4013
1167-1122
Popis: The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the barrier properties of the skin and the role of intercorneocyte skin lipids, particularly their structural organization, in controlling SC permeability is acknowledged. Upon contacting the skin, surfactants interact with the SC components leading to barrier damage.To improve knowledge of the effect of several classes of surfactant on skin barrier function at three different levels.The influence of treatments of human skin explants with six non-ionic and four ionic surfactant solutions on the physicochemical properties of skin was investigated. Skin surface wettability and polarity were assessed through contact angle measurements. Infrared spectroscopy allowed monitoring the SC lipid organization. The lipid extraction potency of surfactants was evaluated thanks to HPLC-ELSD assays.One anionic and one cationic surfactant increased the skin polarity by removing the sebaceous and epidermal lipids and by disturbing the organization of the lipid matrix. Another cationic surfactant displayed a detergency effect without disturbing the skin barrier. Several non-ionic surfactants disturbed the lipid matrix organization and modified the skin wettability without any extraction of the skin lipids. Finally two non-ionic surfactants did not show any effect on the investigated parameters or on the skin barrier.The polarity, the organization of the lipid matrix and the lipid composition of the skin allowed describing finely how surfactants can interact with the skin and disturb the skin barrier function.
Databáze: OpenAIRE