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Coastal fooding is a major threat to communities living in low-lying areas and the increase in the anthropogenic pressure in coastal zones and the efects of climate change (e.g., sea-level rise, increase in storminess and its frequency) are promoting an enhancement of the existing risks for population and properties 1–4 . Coastal fooding results from the interaction of oceanic and atmospheric processes with the local and regional features (topography, nearshore bathymetry, continental shelf, and land use). Among the diferent oceanic agents that might drive coastal fooding, wave-related processes have been found to be the dominant component in large areas of the globe compared to storm surges and tides 5 . When waves approach the shoreline, a large part of the wave energy is dissipated across the surf zone by wave breaking. However, a portion of the remaining energy is converted to potential energy in the form of wave runup on the beach foreshore 6 contributing to boosting the extreme water levels 3 . When the existing natural or man-made coastal protection structure (constructed on land) is lower than the maximum level that water can reach by wave attack, a discharge occurs over the structure and propagates inland. It can be called green water 7 (non-impulsive), when a layer of water passes over the crest, or white water 7 (or impulsive conditions) when waves break on the seaward face of the structure and produce signifcant volumes of splash or spray (not considered here). Terefore, wave runup (and overtopping) is important to coastal planners and engineers because it delivers much of the energy responsible for causing a fooding event 8. Besides disruptions in local services and transportation, during such events, seawater can travel with high velocities, which in turn can afect the integrity of urban elements and properties, and severely injure people. LA/P/0069/2020; ALG-LISBOA-01-145- FEDER-028657; COSMO Program under Programa de Monitorização da Faixa Costeira de Portugal Continental (COSMO) info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
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