| Popis: |
Nearshore wave transformation is a complex coastal process of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, and energy dissipation due to bed friction and breaking contributing variations in the wave height, period and direction. A well defined sediment cell of about 45 km extending from Kovalam headland to Varkala cliff which forms a part of Thiruvananthapuram coast along the southwest coast of India, is selected for the wave transformation studies. In the present study MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model (DHI, 2011) was used. The model simulates the growth, decay and transformation of wind generated waves and swells both in offshore and coastal areas. Providing MIKE 21 SW with a suitable bathymetry is essential for obtaining reliable results from the model. Usually the offshore bathymetry is derived from C-MAP, ETOPO, GEBCO etc. and the nearshore bathymetry is generated from close grid bathymetric surveys. In this study offshore bathymetry was generated from GEBCO-08 grid which is a freely available software with 30 arc (∼ 1 km) resolution. In the nearshore zone, surveyed close grid bathymetric data were used. The other inputs such as wave measurements and wind data provided in the model were from observations in Lakshadweep Sea. Model result is calibrated with field observations along this sector. The model has efficiently simulated the process of shoaling and refraction along the coast. The percentage of observed shoaling is 12.7% at a distance of 24 km from the shoreline at a depth of 70m and it was seen to be increasing to 27.9% when it reached around 2.4 km from the shore at a depth of 10m. The model result also shows that the wave is almost aligned parallel to the coast as wave approaches the coast. This model result can be used for further applications in designing along this coast. |
