Long-Wave Penetration through a Laterally Periodic Continental Shelf
| Autor: | Harry Yeh, Jeffrey Knowles |
|---|---|
| Jazyk: | angličtina |
| Rok vydání: | 2020 |
| Předmět: |
Diffraction
Ocean Engineering 01 natural sciences 010305 fluids & plasmas lcsh:Oceanography lcsh:VM1-989 0103 physical sciences Kondratiev wave Bathymetry lcsh:GC1-1581 Physics::Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics 0105 earth and related environmental sciences Water Science and Technology Civil and Structural Engineering geography geography.geographical_feature_category mathematical and numerical modeling 010505 oceanography Continental shelf lcsh:Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering nearshore dynamics Mechanics Shoaling and schooling coastal processes Undular bore Amplitude Phase velocity Geology |
| Zdroj: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Volume 8 Issue 4 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol 8, Iss 241, p 241 (2020) |
| ISSN: | 2077-1312 |
| DOI: | 10.3390/jmse8040241 |
| Popis: | The transformation of long waves&mdash such as tsunamis and storm surges&mdash evolving over a continental shelf is investigated. We approach this problem numerically using a pseudo-spectral method for a higher-order Euler formulation. Solitary waves and undular bores are considered as models for the long waves. The bathymetry possesses a periodic ridge-valley configuration in the alongshore direction which facilitates a means by which we may observe the effects of refraction, diffraction, focusing, and shoaling. In this scenario, the effects of wave focusing and shoaling enhance the wave amplitude and phase speed in the shallower regions of the domain. The combination of these effects leads to a wave pattern that is atypical of the usual behavior seen in linear shallow-water theory. A reciprocating behavior in the amplitude on the ridge and valley for the wave propagation causes wave radiation behind the leading waves, hence, the amplitude approaches a smaller asymptotic value than the equivalent case with no lateral variation. For an undular bore propagating in one dimension over a smooth step, we find that the water surface resolves into five different mean water levels. The physical mechanisms for this phenomenon are provided. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
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