Statistics of waves with different steepness simulated in a wave basin

Autor:	M. Aziz Tayfun, C. Guedes Soares, Z. Cherneva
Rok vydání:	2013
Předmět:	Physics Environmental Engineering Wave propagation Breaking wave Ocean Engineering symbols.namesake Love wave Amplitude Lamb waves Statistics symbols Crest Rayleigh wave Rogue wave
Zdroj:	Ocean Engineering. 60:186-192
ISSN:	0029-8018
DOI:	10.1016/j.oceaneng.2012.12.031
Popis:	Modulational instabilities induced by third-order nonlinear interactions among freely propagating waves can cause the statistics of various surface features to deviate significantly from the predictions based on the linear Gaussian and second-order models. This study analyzes deep-water waves with different initial steepness measured in a wave basin and characterized with such instabilities, and compares the statistics of wave heights, crest and trough amplitudes observed with a variety of theoretical approximations based on Gram–Charlier expansions. The results indicate that the theoretical approximations describe the empirical distributions observed reasonably well, for the most part. Further comparisons also show that the zero-up- and zero-down crossing heights of the largest waves observed in the experimental series do not exceed Miche–Stokes type upper limits.
Databáze:	OpenAIRE
Externí odkaz:	https://explore.openaire.eu/search/publication?articleId=doi_________::f15697693c7c9f78073f68651591758c https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2012.12.031 Zobrazit plný text záznamu Full Text from ScienceDirect