Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres
| Autor: | M. Huart, Francoise Fiat, L. Gauchet, G. Desbois, M. Peron, Sebastien Thibaut, J. Y. Kempf, P. Angevin, Nawel Baghdadli, D. Saint-Léger, I. Silberzan, G. Provot, S. Muller, A. M. Kermoal, Gustavo S. Luengo, Frederic Leroy, E. De Becker, B. A. Bernard, S. Kravtchenko, K. Nowbuth, A. Galliano |
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| Rok vydání: | 2010 |
| Předmět: |
Chronological ageing
chemistry.chemical_classification Aging integumentary system Chemistry Hair shaft Pharmaceutical Science Dermatology Hair keratin Colloid and Surface Chemistry Chemistry (miscellaneous) Ageing Chemical agents Drug Discovery Evaluation methods Keratin Biophysics sense organs Cuticle (hair) |
| Zdroj: | International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 32:422-434 |
| ISSN: | 0142-5463 |
| DOI: | 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00570.x |
| Popis: | Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
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