| Popis: |
The jewelry designer working within the luxury sector can be found in a variety of work environments. Within each of these contexts, ranging from the small private enterprise to the global luxury conglomerate, he or she will possess differing levels of control over and engagement in the creative process, design and making of jewelry as well as its promotion and sale. Jewelry designers who can be considered craftspersons/artisans and who may also be referred to as a designer maker may be found in all of these settings. Within the major luxury brands, only a few jewelry designers who work at the top level will have the autonomy to practice their craft in its entirety. The craftsperson represents the most deeply engaged category while at the other end of the spectrum, we find those who are involved in some but not all aspects of jewelry design. Many are subject to the logic of mass production which deskills jewelers and parcels out various functions to a variety of technicians in the interest of efficiency, scale and profit. A view of the work done by those engaged in jewelry design illustrates varying levels of skill, imagination, material consciousness and agency—or lack thereof when we consider contexts in which one’s professional identity is compromised. |
