Popis: |
Some rock coasts around the world feature very steep slopes immediately adjacent to the shore. If surface waves propagate on such a steep bottom slope, they experience only slight amplification until very close to shore. In this situation, unexpectedly large wave events may occur near the shore. We combine insight from solutions of a simplified mathematical model with statistical analysis and with observations at the Norwegian coast to conclude that even under moderate wave conditions, very large run-up can occur at the shore.M. Bjørnestad and H. Kalisch, “Extreme wave runup on a steep coastal profile,” AIP Advances 10, 105205 (2020) |