A new probability distribution function of wave steepness

Autor: Xiulan Jiang, Yuhua Pei, Guizhen Zheng
Rok vydání: 2008
Předmět:
Zdroj: Journal of Ocean University of China. 7:246-250
ISSN: 1993-5021
1672-5182
DOI: 10.1007/s11802-008-0246-3
Popis: Wave steepness is an important characteristic describing the severity of sea state in ocean engineering. In the existing theoretical and experimental studies, wave steepness is often substituted by some related quantities. In this paper, a new probability density function (pdf) of steepness, which is a pdf of the steepness in its original definition, is obtained for narrowband Gaussian processes. The drawback inherent in the previous theoretical pdfs of steepness, that is, the probability density at zero steepness is nonzero, has been eliminated. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wind-wave flume to measure the wave steepness distribution. Comparisons among laboratory measurements and some theoretical pdfs of steepness show that the new pdf generally fits the data better than the one proposed by Zheng et al. (1999).
Databáze: OpenAIRE