Wave Transformation Over an Elliptic Shoal on a Sloping Bottom
| Autor: | Chao-Min Hsu, Sung-Shan Hsiao |
|---|---|
| Rok vydání: | 2011 |
| Předmět: |
Surface (mathematics)
geography geography.geographical_feature_category 010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences 010505 oceanography Breaking wave Shoal Cnoidal wave Ocean Engineering Geometry 01 natural sciences Physics::Fluid Dynamics Nonlinear system Modeling and Simulation Wave shoaling Orientation (geometry) Wave height Geotechnical engineering Geology 0105 earth and related environmental sciences Civil and Structural Engineering |
| Zdroj: | Coastal Engineering Journal. 53:151-176 |
| ISSN: | 1793-6292 2166-4250 |
| Popis: | This study investigates wave transformations over an elliptic shoal on a sloping bottom using numerical calculations. The theoretical model is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation that was applied by Chen et al. [2003]. This equation is expressed by the velocity at any level below the surface. The momentum equation is derived using modified vertical vorticity terms from the equation by Wei et al. [1995]. Bottom friction, wave breaking, and subgrid lateral turbulent mixing proposed by Kennedy et al. [2000] are also included in the equations. Several numerical experiments are conducted for waves with incident angles of 0°, 15°, and 30°. The numerical results demonstrate the phenomena of wave focusing in the rear of the elliptic shoal. The wave focusing not only results in a smaller wave-induced current on top of the shoal than that at the rear of the shoal, but also a strong return flow at the back of the shoal. It is found that the non-dimensional wave height in the wave-focusing zone increases as the relative water depth decreases. Moreover, the orientation of wave height contours in the focusing region is almost identical to that of the incident wave angle. This phenomenon stays true for different incident wave periods. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
| Externí odkaz: |
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