Asymptotic theory for the almost-highest solitary wave
| Autor: | Michael S. Longuet-Higgins, M. J. H. Fox |
|---|---|
| Rok vydání: | 1996 |
| Předmět: |
Physics
Asymptotic analysis business.industry Wave propagation Mechanical Engineering Mathematical analysis Cnoidal wave Breaking wave Condensed Matter Physics Momentum Optics Mechanics of Materials Wave shoaling Stokes wave business Mechanical wave Nonlinear Sciences::Pattern Formation and Solitons |
| Zdroj: | Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 317:1-19 |
| ISSN: | 1469-7645 0022-1120 |
| DOI: | 10.1017/s002211209600064x |
| Popis: | The behaviour of the energy in a steep solitary wave as a function of the wave height has a direct bearing on the breaking of solitary waves on a gently shoaling beach. Here it is shown that the speed, energy and momentum of a steep solitary wave in water of finite depth all behave in an oscillatory manner as functions of the wave height and as the limiting height is approached. Asymptotic formulae for these and other wave parameters are derived by means of a theory for the ‘almost-highest wave’ similar to that formulated previously for periodic waves in deep water (Longuet-Higgins & Fox 1977, 1978). It is demonstrated that the theory fits very precisely some recent calculations of solitary waves by Tanaka (1995). |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
| Externí odkaz: |
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