Nearshore wave processes in the Iroise Sea: field measurements and modelling
| Autor: | Jean-François Filipot, Volker Roeber, Martial Boutet, Cédric Ody, Cyril Lathuiliere, Stéphanie Louazel, Thierry Schmitt, Fabrice Ardhuin, André Lusven, Michel Outré, Serge Suanez, Alain Hénaff |
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| Přispěvatelé: | Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine (SHOM), Ministère de la Défense, University of Hawai‘i [Mānoa] (UHM), Laboratoire d’Oéanographie Spatiale [Plouzané] (LOS), Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique (LETG - Brest), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique UMR 6554 (LETG), Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN), Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Université d'Angers (UA)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Géographie et d'Aménagement Régional de l'Université de Nantes (IGARUN), Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN), Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN), Direction Générale de l'Armement (DGA - Ministère de la Défense), PROTEVS-VAGUES 2012 - Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine (SHOM), Suanez, Serge |
| Předmět: |
[PHYS.PHYS.PHYS-AO-PH]Physics [physics]/Physics [physics]/Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics [physics.ao-ph]
[SDU.STU.GM] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology Numerical modeling Brittany infra-gravity waves [SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology flood hazards [PHYS.PHYS.PHYS-AO-PH] Physics [physics]/Physics [physics]/Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics [physics.ao-ph] coastal erosion |
| Zdroj: | HAL Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2013 Coastal Dynamics 2013-7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics Coastal Dynamics 2013-7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Jun 2013, Arcachon, France. p. 605-614 |
| Popis: | International audience; A sample of observations gathered during the PROTEVS-VAGUES 2012 field experiment is presented. A focus is done on the analysis of five instruments deployed over Sein Island south coast. Waves and their effects on the mean water level are examined in the case of a long wave event that occurred on February 11, 2013. The nonlinear wave processes observed in the nearshore are found to be similar to those found over tropical reefs. Preliminary simulations of the Boussinesq type model, BOSZ, show encouraging results. BOSZ captures the main hydrodynamic processes such as refraction, shoaling, and wave breaking, but also accounted for second-order processes such as wave setup and the inherent recirculation in the surf zone. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
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