| Abstrakt: |
The beef jerky at Isaan pop-up Intu-on is a bold rendition of Thai drinking food. Fried and served in hunks with visible grains, the pieces look like twisted trunks of the coastal tea trees in Golden Gate Park. They then pop in the mouth with the help of dried red chile flakes, while fried makrut lime leaves lend citrusy perfume to the dish. It's an invitation to take a sip of crisp, cool wine - and a display of sour, spicy and salty drinking food at its prime. Such is the strength of chef Intu-on Kornnawong, whose pop-up at cozy Hayes Valley natural wine bar Birba is a formidable addition to the region's Thai scene. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER] |
