| Abstrakt: |
The article is devoted to the problem of provision of the quality of decoration of semi-finished fashion products from the fabrics of suiting group of denim type, embroidered by a machine method. Standard methods of the research of geometric properties of textile materials (thickness, surface density), as well as rupture characteristics at constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine (force at rupture, extension) are used. The embroidery of the samples is made using the Brother Innovis 750S machine. As a result of the analysis of 7 samples of the materials of suiting group, "stretch-denim" type, it is found that elongation at rupture in weft of all of the samples exceeds the value of such indicator in warp and reaches 37.5%, and the samples with eiastane and polyamide content have higher value of the indicator. The conducted correlation analysis showed a strong correlation between weight and force at rupture in warp (r-0.84), as well as between weight and thickness (r = 0.74). All samples of denim-like fabrics are conventionally divided into 3 groups in accordance with their elongation at rupture in weft: 1) 30 - 40%; 2) 20 - 30% 3) 15 - 20%. Classification of the defects of embroidered semi-finished products is improved. All defects are divided into: 1-dimensional (stitch defects); 2-dimensional (defects of setting the fabric in the embroidery frame, embroidery defects); and 3-dimensional (deformation of the embroidered area; deformation of the area, adjacent to the embroidered area; deformation of the materials along the embroidery frame line). The method of evaluation of the quality of semi-finished products embroidery using the 4-point scale (where 0 - unsatisfactory, 3 - no identified defects) is proposed. Evaluation of embroidery with a complex design is recommended to be carried out separately for each area of the image. The use of a duplicate glutinous material for stabilization of semi-finished products, made of denim-like fabrics, for machine embroidery is recommended. The research is a contribution to the development of fashion design of the products, made of denim-like fabrics, decorated with machine embroidery. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
