| Autor: |
Blair, K., Custer, D., Alziati, S., Bennett, W. |
| Předmět: |
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| Zdroj: |
Engineering of Sport 5, Volume 2; 2004, p283-289, 7p |
| Abstrakt: |
Accident reports and previous research show that ice screws often fail to remain anchored in ice when subjected to the typical loads produced by climbing falls. This research characterized the failure of ice screws placed in ice and pulled to failure in a tensile tester. The test matrix is comprised of two ice types (water ice and aerated ice), two loading rates (125 N/s and 12,500 N/s), and three placement angles (-30°, 0°, 30°). High-speed video provided a qualitative record of the failure. Four results were worthy of note. The failure loads were significantly below those reported in the literature. Load rate significantly affects failure load. Angle, load rate, and ice type show a complex relationship with failure load. Two failure modes were observed, a sudden "popping out" and a "slicing out." These results suggest that climbers should minimize loading rate and place ice screws where the ice is in compression. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
| Databáze: |
Complementary Index |
| Externí odkaz: |
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