| Abstrakt: |
Mulberry anthocyanins are natural pigments that are readily available and sourced inexpensively. However, the color characteristics of mulberry dyed silk fabric are significantly influenced by process conditions, leading to a limited color gamut. This study aims to broaden the color gamut of mulberry anthocyanin-dyed silk fabric by optimizing both the extraction process of anthocyanins from mulberry and the dyeing process. Single-factor experiments and orthogonal experiments were used to optimize the extraction process of mulberry anthocyanins. The factors investigated include the material-to-liquid ratio, extraction temperature, extraction time, and pH value. The dye extract was then used for direct dyeing of silk fabric, and color characteristic values were measured. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dye bath pH value were evaluated using single-factor experiments and orthogonal experiments to determine the optimal dyeing process of mulberry anthocyanins on silk fabric. We further explored the two main factors: dyeing pH and mordant, to expand the color gamut. The color-gamut range, hue style, color value, and color fastness of the dyed fabrics were studied. The results indicated that the optimal extraction parameters were a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:10 (g/mL), an extraction temperature of 60 °C, an extraction time of 60 min, and an extraction pH of 4. The optimal dyeing process was a dyeing temperature of 60 °C, a dyeing time of 40 min, and a dye bath pH of 3. Under different dyeing pH and mordanting conditions, the obtained color-gamut ranges were a* (− 9.66 to 19.16), b* (− 12.04 to 11.58), L* (30.42 to 85.78), C* (0.62 to 19.16), and h° (0° to 2.8°) and (5.7° to 360°). The dyed fabrics fell into six major color-tone categories: simplicity and delicacy, elegance and gentleness, sweetness and romance, naturalness and simplicity, and dignity and grandeur. Compared with Pantone colors, 52 colors were identified, demonstrating international applicability. Through the variation of dyeing pH values and mordanting processes, the color-gamut range of dyed fabrics was effectively expanded, presenting promising applications of mulberry anthocyanins in silk-fabric dyeing. In addition, the mulberry anthocyanin-dyed silk fabric exhibited excellent UV resistance and satisfactory color-fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
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