| Autor: |
Lorion, Chloé, Bardin, Viviane, Bonnet, Sébastien, Lopez‐Gaydon, Amandine, Vogelgesang, Boris, Bechetoille, Nicolas |
| Předmět: |
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| Zdroj: |
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology; Mar2024, Vol. 23 Issue 3, p1036-1044, 9p |
| Abstrakt: |
Background: The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity‐boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge. Aims: The elasticity‐boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers. Methods: Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin‐equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold‐free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe‐projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions. Results: We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin‐1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold‐free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice‐daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging. Conclusion: The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity‐boosting and antisagging claims. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
| Databáze: |
Complementary Index |
| Externí odkaz: |
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