Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

Autor: Gilmore NK; Department of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA., Klimek P; Crimpd, Inc., Seattle, WA, 98118, USA., Abrahamsson E; Stones & Stories, Årsta, AB, 120 52, Sweden., Baar K; Department of Neurobiology, Physiology and Behavior, University of California Davis, Davis, CA, 95616, USA. kbaar@ucdavis.edu.; Department of Physiology and Membrane Biology, University of California Davis, One Shields Ave, 195 Briggs Hall, Davis, CA, 95616, USA. kbaar@ucdavis.edu.; VA Northern California Health Care System, Mather, CA, 95655, USA. kbaar@ucdavis.edu.
Jazyk: angličtina
Zdroj: Sports medicine - open [Sports Med Open] 2024 Nov 19; Vol. 10 (1), pp. 125. Date of Electronic Publication: 2024 Nov 19.
DOI: 10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
Abstrakt: Background: Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol ("Abrahangs"), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength.
Methods: We retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Crimpd app to log their training. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4-16-week period were included. Climbers were grouped by the number of training sessions into: "Climbing Only", "Abrahangs Only", "Max Hangs Only" and "Both" Max Hangs and Abrahangs.
Results: Frequent low intensity finger loading was as effective at improving grip strength in climbers as training with maximal loads. Additionally, combining low intensity and maximal load training resulted in additive strength gains.
Conclusions: These results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs.
Competing Interests: Declarations Ethics Approval and Consent to Participate All Crimpd users provided consent to use their data retrospectively. The Medical Ethics Committee at Maastricht University confirmed “that the Medical Research Involving Human Subjects Act (WMO) does not apply to the study and an official approval of this study is not required.” This decision reflected the fact that the participants had consented to data use and no identifiable health information was used. Consent for Publication All authors approved the final version. Competing Interests The funder had no role in the design or testing of the hypothesis. EA is the creator of the Abrahangs protocol and PK is designer of the Crimpd App.
(© 2024. The Author(s).)
Databáze: MEDLINE
Externí odkaz: