Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract.

Autor: Lorion C; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France., Bardin V; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France., Bonnet S; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France., Lopez-Gaydon A; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France., Vogelgesang B; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France., Bechetoille N; Gattefossé SAS, Saint-Priest Cedex, France.
Jazyk: angličtina
Zdroj: Journal of cosmetic dermatology [J Cosmet Dermatol] 2024 Mar; Vol. 23 (3), pp. 1036-1044. Date of Electronic Publication: 2023 Nov 23.
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16059
Abstrakt: Background: The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity-boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge.
Aims: The elasticity-boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers.
Methods: Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin-equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold-free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe-projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions.
Results: We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin-1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold-free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice-daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging.
Conclusion: The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
(© 2023 Gattefossé SAS. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)
Databáze: MEDLINE
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