Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

Autor: Fontbonne A; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Teme B; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Abric E; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France., Lecerf G; QIMA Synelvia, Labège, France., Callejon S; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Moga A; QIMA Synelvia, Labège, France., Cadars B; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Giraud F; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Chavagnac-Bonneville M; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France., Ardiet N; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France., Guyoux A; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France., Trompezinski S; Research and Development Department, NAOS Group, Aix-en-Provence, France.; NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France.
Jazyk: angličtina
Zdroj: Journal of cosmetic dermatology [J Cosmet Dermatol] 2024 Jan; Vol. 23 (1), pp. 308-315. Date of Electronic Publication: 2023 Aug 04.
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15893
Abstrakt: Background: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect.
Methods: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas.
Results: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA.
Conclusion: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.
(© 2023 Naos - Aix en Provence and QIMA Bioalternatives. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)
Databáze: MEDLINE
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