Influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing lipoic acid.

Autor: Külkamp-Guerreiro IC; Faculty of Pharmacy, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul, Av. Ipiranga 2752, Porto Alegre, RS, 90610-000, Brazil. irene@ufrgs.br, Berlitz SJ, Contri RV, Alves LR, Henrique EG, Barreiros VR, Guterres SS
Jazyk: angličtina
Zdroj: International journal of cosmetic science [Int J Cosmet Sci] 2013 Feb; Vol. 35 (1), pp. 105-11. Date of Electronic Publication: 2012 Nov 28.
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12013
Abstrakt: Sensory analysis has become a valuable tool in qualifying consumer perception regarding cosmetic products. This study aims to explore the application of discriminative and affective consumers sensory analysis in evaluating the influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties and rheological characteristics of a cosmetic formulation containing lipoic acid. The nanocapsules were prepared by the pre-formed polymer precipitation method. Semisolid formulations were prepared using a silicone emulsion system, and these pseudoplastic fluids were characterized using rheological methods. The panellists (n = 88) analysed the formulations with and without nanoencapsulated lipoic acid as paired comparisons within the discriminative and affective sensory analysis. In these measurements, spreadability, stickiness, oiliness and sulphur odour were evaluated. The panellists had no previous training in conducting these measurements. It was shown that nanotechnology can change some sensory characteristics of the formulations. The spreadability, stickiness and oiliness are the attributes for which the panellists noted differences with statistical significance. The spreadability difference could be due to the results found in the rheological profiles and consistency indexes between formulations. In the discriminative analysis, the panellists could not detect any noticeable differences in the sulphur odour or residual properties between samples, attributes that would influence whether consumers adhered to the selected treatment. Considering affective analysis, the consumers communicated that the formulation containing the nanoencapsulated lipoic acid, which presented less consistency, was preferred based on the reduction in immediate stickiness and residual sulphur odour. The free lipoic acid formulation was preferred in terms of residual oiliness and spreadability.
(© 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)
Databáze: MEDLINE
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