Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone

Autor: M. Buckley, O. E. Ige, Henrik Kalisch, Maria Bjørnestad, M. Streßer, Jochen Horstmann, H. G. Frøysa, R. Carrasco-Alvarez, M. Cysewski
Jazyk: angličtina
Rok vydání: 2021
Předmět:
Zdroj: e2021GL095722
Geophysical Research Letters
Bjørnestad, M.; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, H.; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, H.G.; Ige, O.E.; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R.: Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone. In: Geophysical Research Letters. Vol. 48 (2021) 21, e2021GL095722. (DOI: /10.1029/2021GL095722)
ISSN: 0094-8276
DOI: 10.1029/2021GL095722)
Popis: Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave-by-wave variations in mean-water level, wave height and incipient wave breaking on mass transport properties of waves in the surf zone. It is shown quantitatively that elevated local mean-water level correlates positively with increased Lagrangian mass transport at the free surface. Eulerian ADV measurements in the fluid column suggest that the depth-integrated wave-by-wave mass transport also correlates positively with the local mean-water level, and is only weakly linked to wave height and wave-breaking events. publishedVersion
Databáze: OpenAIRE