On steep gravity waves meeting a vertical wall: a triple instability

Autor:	David Drazen, Michael S. Longuet-Higgins
Rok vydání:	2002
Předmět:	business.industry Wave propagation Mechanical Engineering Breaking wave Mechanics Condensed Matter Physics Instability Standing wave Optics Amplitude Mechanics of Materials Surface wave Crest business Mechanical wave Geology
Zdroj:	Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 466:305-318
ISSN:	1469-7645 0022-1120
DOI:	10.1017/s0022112002001246
Popis:	Theoretical arguments suggest that progressive gravity waves incident on a vertical wall can produce periodic standing waves only if the incident wave steepness ak is quite small, certainly less than 0.284. Laboratory experiments are carried out in which an incident wave train of almost uniform amplitude meets a vertical barrier. At wave steepnesses greater than 0.236 the resulting motion near the barrier is non-periodic. A growing instability is observed in which every third wave crest is steeper than its neighbours. The steep waves develop sharp crests, or vertical jets. The two neighbouring crests are rounded, at-topped, or of intermediate form. The instability grows by a factor of about 2.2 for every three wave periods, almost independently of the incident wave steepness.
Databáze:	OpenAIRE
Externí odkaz:	https://explore.openaire.eu/search/publication?articleId=doi_________::c118bab7ec59e5dedd0a2401bb5cad59 https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112002001246 Zobrazit plný text záznamu