Autor: |
Michael S. Longuet-Higgins, R.C.T. Rainey |
Rok vydání: |
2006 |
Předmět: |
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Zdroj: |
Ocean Engineering. 33:2012-2024 |
ISSN: |
0029-8018 |
DOI: |
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2005.09.014 |
Popis: |
A remarkably accurate approximation to the profile of a limiting progressive gravity wave in water of infinite depth is given by the expression (0.1) y / L = A cosh ( x / L ) , where L is the wavelength, x and y are horizontal and vertical coordinates and A is a constant given by (0.2) A = 1 / ( 3 sinh 1 2 ) = 1.1080 . This determines the wave steepness ( H / L ) as 0.14140 a proportional error of less than 0.3% (about 10 times closer than previous approximations) and the phase speed c / ( gL ) 1 / 2 as 0.43511, which is accurate to within 0.2%. The entire surface profile is accurate to less than 0.7%. The corresponding particle velocities are found by a straightforward numerical integration. It is shown that this type of approximation cannot be made exact by the introduction of further parameters. |
Databáze: |
OpenAIRE |
Externí odkaz: |
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