Role of short and long-wave interaction on wave celerity in the surf zone of a low-sloping beach
| Autor: | Tissier, Marion, Almar, Rafael, Bonneton, Philippe, Michallet, Hervé, Birrien, Florent, De Bakker, Anouk, Ruessink, B. Gerben |
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| Přispěvatelé: | Department of Physical Geography, Utrecht University [Utrecht]-Faculty of Geosciences, Laboratoire d'Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (LEGOS NOUMEA), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Institut de recherche pour le développement [IRD] : UR065-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble] (LEGI), Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology (Grenoble INP )-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Joseph Fourier - Grenoble 1 (UJF), Utrecht University [Utrecht], GLOBEX, Michallet, Hervé |
| Jazyk: | angličtina |
| Rok vydání: | 2013 |
| Předmět: |
infragravity waves
bore merging [PHYS.MECA.MEFL] Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph] [SPI.MECA.MEFL] Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph] Broken wave celerity [PHYS.MECA.MEFL]Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Fluid mechanics [physics.class-ph] Physics::Classical Physics non-linear celerity predictors [SPI.MECA.MEFL]Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph] |
| Zdroj: | 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Jun 2013, Arcachon, France. pp.1677-1686 |
| Popis: | International audience; A good prediction of wave celerity is essential for wave propagation modeling in the nearshore. Previous studies have been focusing on the analysis of wave celerities averaged over several waves, neglecting the intra-wave variability due to long-wave transformation for instance. This paper is devoted to a study of individual wave transformation in the surf zone of a low-sloping beach, based on the analysis of a high-resolution laboratory dataset. The variability of the individual wave celerity in the surf zone is quantified and is seen to relate with the local elevation of the long waves normalized by the mean water depth. Lastly, individual wave celerities are compared to the predictions given by several linear and non-linear models. |
| Databáze: | OpenAIRE |
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