Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

Autor: Gilmore, Natalie K., Klimek, Peter, Abrahamsson, Emil, Baar, Keith
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Zdroj: Sports Medicine - Open; 11/19/2024, Vol. 10 Issue 1, p1-11, 11p
Abstrakt: Background: Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol ("Abrahangs"), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength. Methods: We retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Crimpd app to log their training. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4–16-week period were included. Climbers were grouped by the number of training sessions into: "Climbing Only", "Abrahangs Only", "Max Hangs Only" and "Both" Max Hangs and Abrahangs. Results: Frequent low intensity finger loading was as effective at improving grip strength in climbers as training with maximal loads. Additionally, combining low intensity and maximal load training resulted in additive strength gains. Conclusions: These results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs. Key Points: • A 10-minute low-intensity long duration hold protocol can improve finger strength in rock climbers. • The increase in strength with low-intensity long duration holds is equivalent to that of maximal hang training. • The two types of training have an additive effect on grip strength. • This is the first retrospective study to examine the effects of different training programs in a large population of climbers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
Databáze: Complementary Index
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